1.Seed to Soil Contact

Ideally you should have at least 6 inches of top soil. Loosen the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches with a rototiller or tillage implement.

Eliminate drainage problems by having the soil slope away from the foundation or were water may poodle. Rake and smooth the soil; remove any debris or large dirt clods.

Spread the seed in at least two different directions at right angle to the first pass.

Lightly rake to seed to incorporate the seed to a ¼ to ½ inch depth. Care must be given to mix the soil and not to "drag" soil.

Roll the area to increase seed to soil contact.

Spread The Establisher Seed Enhancing Mulch to reduce soil erosion and increase moisture retention.

2. Soil Moisture

First watering should be a deep watering to the point that water puddles. This will help saturate the soil profile that can act as reserves later in the establishment phase. Caution must be given to avoid soil erosion.

Each watering after the first should be light and frequent, never allowing the surface to completely dry out.

Normally after the first mowing or 4 to 6 weeks the waterings can be reduce to once per week.

3. Soil Temperature

Planting Windows

The ideal seeding windows is considered August 15 to September 15... depending on your exact location. Dormant means the seed will lay dormant in the soil until the soil temperature reaches about 50 degree Fahrenheit Dormant seeding can work well if the site does not have a erosion problem or you doing an overseeding. The yellow area may work, however, you are in a higher risk range.(Overseeding existing lawns).

Remember this!

In the spring, look at the soil: When you can prepare the soil, seed it, the earlier the better. You can not seed too early! The seed will lay dormant in the soil and will be ready for germination when soil temperatures reaches the ideal temperature. The later in the spring you wait; the more annual weed competition you will have. And the new seedlings may not be mature enough to make it through the heat of the summer.

In the fall, look at the calendar: You may be able to prepare the soil, and the seed may even germinate, but there is a chance it may not survive the winter. Start your seeding projects early fall, don’t be afraid August 1 or even sooner. Late fall seedings may work, but be prepare to overseed or reseed in the spring.

4. Soil Nutrients

It is important to be aggressive with fertilization during establishment or sometimes called grow-in. Ideally you should have a soil test completed to enable you to balance the nutrients in the soil.

During grow-in apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per month for the first three months.

After grow-in, fertilization will be required for optimal performance but now moderate the amounts of nitrogen usage.

Mow new turf when needed. As with mature or newly establish turf, never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf per mowing.