How To Establish a Healthy New Lawn

1. Selecting & Purchasing Seed
2. Testing the Soil
3. Weed Control
4. Soil Preparation
5. Till the Soil
6. Raking
7. Seeding
8. Watering
9. Mowing

Selecting & Purchasing Seed
Summit Seed offers two ways to purchase seed online:

• If you know exactly which grass seed variety you want to purchase click here to place your secure online order.
• For those of you unsure which variety of grass seed is best for you, click here. The Seed Finder will help you choose the seed that is best for your project.

The Variety Information section will give you the opportunity to review the printable product information for each variety specified and available for home use.

Should you need other assistance in selecting a grass seed variety or custom seed mixture or blend, please email us at info@summitseed.com.

Testing the Soil
Testing the soil is the best way to determine what nutrients your soil needs and the amounts required to provide the best start for your new lawn. A soil test will also indicated whether or not the soil pH (acidity or alkalinity) needs to be adjusted.

Soil testing kits are available at most lawn & garden centers, nurseries or hardware stores. In most areas of the country soil testing information and services are available through private testing companies or Local County Extension offices. When having soil tested, ask the testing service to provide fertilizer and organic/mineral amendment recommendations for your lawn.

Weed Control
The majority of annual weeds can be controlled by tilling the soil. Perennial weeds, especially bermudagrass, kikuyugrass and other perennial grasses present a potential problem. Some have a dormant period and most are capable of re-growing after tilling or hand weeding. Applying a nonselective-herbicide (such as Round-Up) during periods of active growth will typically eliminate even the tough perennials. Wait 10-14 days after treating before tilling the soil. Non-selective herbicides are not effective on nutshedge or weed seed. Read and carefully follow all label instructions.

Soil Preparation
The soil test results will indicate the fertilizer analysis needed and at what rate. Apply any materials recommended for adjusting the soil pH at this time. If a soil test was not conducted, a fertilizer high in phosphorus should be initially applied at a rate of 2-3 lbs. per 1,000-sq. ft. For example, a good starter fertilizer would have N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus), and K (potassium) ratio of 4-5-1.

Till the Soil
Tilling the soil accomplishes several things. It works the recommended fertilizer and mineral/organic amendments into the soil. It helps the new grass take root in the soil and it makes the soil easier to smooth out and make level. The soil should be tilled to the depth of 4-6 inches deep, 3-4 inches for Savannah Bermudagrass seed.

Raking
Use a garden-type rake or aluminum landscape rake to remove any rocks and debris that the tiller has brought to the soil's surface. Level the ground as best as you can. Leaving the soil at least ½ inch below adjoining paved patios, walks and driveways. With a water roller half full, roll the area in two different directions to settle the tilled soil. Daily rentals of lawn rollers are available at most local equipment rental supply stores.

Rake again to even. To completely eliminate settling, water the area thoroughly, allowing the soil to firm and settle. When the surface is dry and easy to rake, rake the area again to fill in low areas, level and loosen the surface. This final step is especially important for Savannah lawns.

Seeding
Select the best quality seed available using improved varieties, mixtures or blends recommended for your area. Purity and germination percentages should be high. Only a small percentage of non-perennial grasses should be present and no noxious weeds should be named on the label. Click here for tips about "Reading a Seed Label".

Using the recommended pounds per 1,000 sq. ft., sow the seed with a drop or rotary/cyclone spreader (rotary/cyclone spreaders allow for quicker and more even seed distribution) uniformly across the tilled and raked area. Use half the amount in two different directions (at right angles) to help ensure good coverage. When distribution of the seed is completed, lightly rake the seed into the soil. Be careful not to rake more than ½ inch deep (approximately). Next, on dry soil, use an empty roller to firm the soil surface as this helps the germination process. Daily rentals of lawn rollers are available at most local equipment rental supply stores.

Watering
It is extremely important that a newly seeded lawn be kept moist but NOT SATURATED, until the seeds begin to grow. After the seeds have germinated and have begun to establish a root system, reduce the frequency of watering. Applying too much water will only inhibit germination and promote disease. As you reduce the watering frequency you should also increase the amount of water applied each time.

6-8 weeks after planting treat your lawn like an established lawn.

Deep, infrequent watering is typically best for most lawns. On average, a lawn needs about 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, either from rain or irrigation. This 1 inch of water normally soaks the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches, which allows the water to reach deep into the root system.

You must determine the rate of application of your sprinkler system to set up any irrigation program. An easy way to determine the rate of your sprinkler system is to set out a series of equal sized containers (cans, bowls, etc.) if you use a single sprinkler. Run the system for 30 minutes and then measure the amount of water in the can and adjust your watering time to reach the desired level. With this little "can test" and a little simple math you can determine the length of time it takes to apply 1 inch of water.

Watch for runoff during the watering period. It is very possible that your lawn will not be able to soak up the water as fast as your sprinkler is putting it on the lawn. If this occurs shut off the sprinkler for an hour and then turn it on again. If you have an automatic system, have it cycle through the stations again.

Also, remember that sloped areas will have more tendencies for runoff. The best times to water your lawn is in the early morning or early evening when there is generally less wind and heat. The least desirable times are in the heat of the afternoon, when water evaporates too quickly and very late in the evening, which can cause the lawn to stay wet all night. This may encourage disease development.

As each lawn area is unique, there are no formulas or automatics for determining a watering schedule. Keep in mind that fenced lawn areas and shaded turf generally requires less water than do lawns in full sun. The best schedules are those determined by observing the appearance of your lawn.

Lawns that are watered sufficiently generally are healthy and uniform in color and growth. Whereas lawns that are underwatered will typically be uneven, with areas of poor or little growth. Often a poorly designed irrigation system or plugged or damaged sprinkler heads causes this condition. These problems are frequently identified when a "can test" is conducted.

There are several easy methods to help determine your lawns need for water. Push a soil probe or old screwdriver into the soil in areas that look dry and also into areas that look lush and healthy. With soil that has ample moisture, it is generally very easy to push a probe or screwdriver into the soil, whereas soil that is dry is typically very difficult to push into the ground. Turf that is moisture deficient will also not spring back up after walking on it.

Once you have identified and corrected sprinkler coverage problems, you are now in a position to set a watering schedule. Remember deep waterings are typically best for most lawns throughout the year. Observing your lawn is the key to adequate watering. After a series of long waterings, stop. Each day check your lawn for signs of water stress. Areas of blue-gray color and thin, curled leaves are the most common early signs of water stress. When these "hot spots" first appear, you will know that your lawn should have had a deep watering the day before.

This is a basic guide for setting up the intervals between watering. Keep in mind that this interval will change with the season, with the shorter intervals coming in the summer heat. Also be mindful of weather changes; be they summer rains, hot, dry winds or unusually long dry spells. Be ready to respond with changes in your watering program. You'll have a healthier, more beautiful lawn, and be conserving water at the same time.

Mowing
Make sure that your lawn mower has a newly sharpened blade. You can sharpen a lawn mower blade at home by simply using a grinding stone or file. Lawn mower stores that provide sales & service will sharpen your mower blade for a nominal fee.

As the new lawn begins to grow, it will be necessary to mow. Proper mowing will also increase your lawn's density, attractiveness and reduce lawn care problems. Blues, ryes and fescues may be mowed with either a rotary or reel mower. Bermudas and zoysias may be mowed with a rotary mower but will look their best when mowed with a power reel mower. Adjust the mower to the recommended height for your grass seed variety.

Increase the mowing height ½ inch (but not more than 3 inches total) for shady areas, immediately following a drought period or when insect injury or high traffic has weakened the grass.

An important rule of thumb is to mow on a regular schedule and avoid removing more than 1/3 of the top growth. Top growth, or cutting height, refers to the length of the grass blades above the soil. Cutting below the optimum height can impede root development which is key to having a dense, healthy lawn.

When mowing on a frequent regular schedule you may leave the clippings if desired. Clippings decompose quickly and help put valuable nutrients back in the soil. For a more groomed appearance or during times of rapid growth, clippings are best removed.

Fertilizing
When the lawn is 6-8 weeks old, it is time to reapply an application of fertilizer. Most fertilizers are more easily and uniformly applied with rotary/cyclone spreaders. (Drop spreaders offer slower application and an even fertilizer distribution is more difficult to accomplish). The goal of any fertilization program is to provide your lawn with nutrients it needs for optimum growth. Refer to your soil test results for component deficiency, or if a soil test was not conducted, follow these general fertilizer guidelines.

Most lawn experts agree that the fertilizer with N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus) and K (potassium) analysis ratios of 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 are acceptable for use on any lawn. Examples on the fertilizer bag that fit these ratios are 12-4-8, 21-7-14, 16-4-8 and 20-5-10. The fertilizer should also have at least 1/2 of its nitrogen (N) in a slow soluble/slow-release form. Lawns fertilized with these forms of nitrogen (N) tend to have better color, thickness and reduced leaf growth. If the lawn still has good color in 6-8 weeks and is growing well at the end of this period, then delay the next fertilizer application a little longer.

Fertilizer application rates should be as low as possible and still produce a high quality lawn. If the amount of nitrogen (N) - (the first number of the analysis listed on the bag) is between 5 and 12, than the application rate should be 10 lbs. for every 1,000-sq. ft. of lawn. If the number is between 12 and 18 the application rate should be 6 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. Anything over 19 should be applied at 4-5 lbs. per 1,000-sq. ft. of lawn. These ratios are guidelines but always apply the fertilizer at the recommended rate listed on the bag.

The best time to fertilize your lawn is when it is actively growing and in need of nutrients. For Southern lawns, this means beginning the program just after spring green-up and stopping about two months before the average frost date in the fall. For Northern lawns, begin the program as the lawn begins to grow and green-up in the spring, then reduce applications as the weather gets hotter. When the cool weather returns in the fall, the lawn can again be fertilized. A late fall application, after the first frost, has been shown to increase lawn quality the following spring.

Once again, leaving your clippings on the lawn, you are fertilizing the lawn almost on a continuous basis, possibly extending the time period between commercially manufactured fertilizer applications. Lawn fertilization is truly the case of a little occasionally is good, but a lot at one time may cause problems.

Weed Control
Even with good weed control practices prior to planting, and the use of quality seed, a certain amount of weeds are inevitable with a new lawn. When possible, hand weeding a new lawn after the first mowing is best. However with large lawns, the use of herbicides may be the best solution. Check with your local nursery and ask for recommendations based on your new lawn and season. Remember to follow all label instructions for applications and apply only to a lawn that is healthy and actively growing.